Last night Peter & I went through all our stuff to trim things down to the minimum for the trip up the Dempster Hwy. We didn't want any extra weight to deal with. We left about 60% of the stuff behind in the hotel in Dawson City. When we asked Dave what he was going to take, he said "Everything". Dave has a lot less than us. Check the picture of Dave's bike. It is fully loaded for the trip; 2 small saddle bags & a gym bag. Boy, these dirt bike riders are hardcore.
Today the fun began. This is the day that Peter has been waiting for. The Arctic Circle, the NWT & Inuvik are 3 of his goals for the trip. After the usual ceremonial pictures in front of the Dempster Hwy sign we were off. The only 5 kms of pavement disappeared quickly as we passed the sign reminding us to drive/ride safely because there isn't any medical services for 370 kms. Point taken.
It wasn't long until we were surrounded by breath taking prehistoric scenery. There were bunt cake mountains with icing in the distance. There were purple hills in front of them, puffy white marsh mellow clouds above the carpet of trees & foliage leading down to a wide snow covered river bed. Wow! I thought I could see a T-Rex roaming in the distance. Man really is but a drop in the ocean of life.
Once I realized that the road followed the river through the valley, I began looking ahead trying to figure out where the valley & road would go. It was really a delightful ride. The road surface was basically hard packed dirt so it wasn't much different than pavement. I thought, "Wow, if it says like this, things will be a breeze." It was like Moses had parted the forest & put a road in. Cool. After a couple of easy going hours the road started to climb over the mountains. My road game changed. Now I looked ahead for the brown ribbon flowing over the hills. It was kind of funny to see the strange directions it took. "Man, we're going way over there & then back over here. Up & down all over the place. The guys that laid this road out must have been drunk.
Time passed uneventfully. I started looking at the clouds trying to imagine things. Suddenly, an old prospector in a hat with the brim turned up at the front was smiling down on us. His bushy beard was accented by a large mustashe. He looked like a prospector Santa. His eyes laughing @ us.
Dave lead followed by Peter, then me. You see, Dave used to be a motocross racer. He has a lot of off road experience. Peter has done 3K of gravel roads in Labrador; I have done maybe 10 kms of gravel total in my life! I didn't want to hold those guys up. Things seemed pretty good until we were within one kilometre of Eagle Plains our destination.
We came over a rise & then headed down into a wet dip in the road. Apparently, Dave had thrown his hand into the air to warn us but he was so far ahead I didn't see it. The next thing I know, Peter is fish tailing wildly in front of me. First the back of the bike goes right, then left, then right, then left again swinging like a pendulum. Holy crap! Peter regains control & straightens out the bike. Way to go Peter!
Then I'm on top of the wet stuff. I madly brake to slow down as much as I can. This stuff is slippery! I swing left to avoid the stuff Peter hit. Bad move! Now I'm headed toward the tree tops, off the road. I think, "That could hurt." Another little voice in my head says, "Don't worry about the trees. The fall will probably kill you." Suddenly, the bike shoots madly back across the road to the right, but it is listing @ a 45 degree angle in the direction I just came from. I think, "Oh, good. I'm only going to lay it down in this stuff. That's not so bad." Somehow the front wheel turns into the skid. Miraculously, the bike straightens up. I'm headed down the middle of the road upright again! A sudden burst of laughter fills my helmet. I can't believe I survived! Seconds later I am out of the brown ice.
I head up to the top of the hill. Dave is already parked in front of the Eagle Plains Hotel. Peter is busy taking a picture of a rainbow in the valley. Neither one of them knew that I had just about "bought the farm".
Tomorrow: more "fun" on the way to Inuvik.
Friday, 17 June 2011
Monday, 13 June 2011
Day 14: Dave & Doug Whitehorse to Dawson; Hwy 2, 530 kms
Today Dave & I set off to join Peter in Dawson City. Shortly after we loaded up the bikes a fox loped past us in downtown Whitehorse. "Holy cow did you see that Dave?" "Sure did."
Pretty uneventful trip except for the pounding we took from the road. At times it seemed as though the road dropped out from under the front tire leaving tire in the air, only to rejoin it with a whup a few seconds later. Ouch! The speed bumps had been turned upside down; replaced with large troughs that ran across the road. On more than one occasion I thought I was going to get swallowed up by them.
In several places the road was lined with a boarder of purple & yellow flowers (not the ones from Ontario). Really pretty actually. I have seen the purple flower on a couple of territorial signs so I don't think it is a weed.
Today was also the first day for bugs. We had to stop for bridge construction at one point. The mosquitoes appeared out of nowhere. I quickly closed my face shield while we waited three minutes for the light to change. I felt right @ home. It was shades of the "Bridges of Huron County" construction I experienced when I first moved to Belgrave. It seemed that all the good motorcycle roads had bridge reconditioning on them.
Dawson is right out of the old west. It doesn't matter whether the building is new or old, it must look like the Gold Rush era. I half expected a gun fight to break out at anytime. Dirt streets & board sidewalks connect the pastel coloured buildings. In away, it reminded me of Newfoundland.
After an outstanding turkey dinner Peter & I became members of the Sourtoe Cocktail Club in the hotel bar. Nine to eleven is "Toe Time." A ceremony similar to the "Kiss the Cod" ceremony in NFLD with a twist. They submerge a sourdoe's toe in a shot of Yukon Gold; you drink the shot & the toe must touch your lips. Pictures to follow.
We head to Eagle Plains halfway up the famous Dempster Hwy tomorrow. Peter is really excited. We are finally on our way to the Arctic Circle & Inuvik NWT.
Pretty uneventful trip except for the pounding we took from the road. At times it seemed as though the road dropped out from under the front tire leaving tire in the air, only to rejoin it with a whup a few seconds later. Ouch! The speed bumps had been turned upside down; replaced with large troughs that ran across the road. On more than one occasion I thought I was going to get swallowed up by them.
In several places the road was lined with a boarder of purple & yellow flowers (not the ones from Ontario). Really pretty actually. I have seen the purple flower on a couple of territorial signs so I don't think it is a weed.
Today was also the first day for bugs. We had to stop for bridge construction at one point. The mosquitoes appeared out of nowhere. I quickly closed my face shield while we waited three minutes for the light to change. I felt right @ home. It was shades of the "Bridges of Huron County" construction I experienced when I first moved to Belgrave. It seemed that all the good motorcycle roads had bridge reconditioning on them.
Dawson is right out of the old west. It doesn't matter whether the building is new or old, it must look like the Gold Rush era. I half expected a gun fight to break out at anytime. Dirt streets & board sidewalks connect the pastel coloured buildings. In away, it reminded me of Newfoundland.
After an outstanding turkey dinner Peter & I became members of the Sourtoe Cocktail Club in the hotel bar. Nine to eleven is "Toe Time." A ceremony similar to the "Kiss the Cod" ceremony in NFLD with a twist. They submerge a sourdoe's toe in a shot of Yukon Gold; you drink the shot & the toe must touch your lips. Pictures to follow.
We head to Eagle Plains halfway up the famous Dempster Hwy tomorrow. Peter is really excited. We are finally on our way to the Arctic Circle & Inuvik NWT.
Sunday, 12 June 2011
Day 12: Watson Lake to Whitehorse; Hwy 97, 500 kms
We'll upload photos later next week when we return to civilization & high speed internet.
After a few photos of the Sign Post Forest we left Watson Lake. The Sign Post Forest was started in 1942 by a homesick US Army soldier who put up a sign stating how many miles it was to his home town from Watson Lake. Today travelers are encouraged to add signs to the collection which numbers over 70,000. (I found a sign from a couple in Whitby my former home town for 35 years.)
Although Watson Lake claims to be the "Gateway to the Yukon", it was depressing to see all the closed business as we rode through the town. The hotel we stayed in, had the original early 1900's atmosphere. Thankfully, the room was fine.
Not much wild life today. In fact, we only saw one brown bear who high tailed it into the woods when we slowed to take a picture of him.
The only other excitement was a kilometre of loose gravel & blinding dust. Over the winter as sections of the road broke up, the pavement is removed and is replaced with loose gravel until it could be rolled & tared. There had been several of these gravel sections over the past two days but this was the longest by far. Up to this point I had used the snowmobile over the water technique on these patches. Just give her & pray. That wasn't going to work this time. Fortunately, the flag person had seen us amongst a caravan of RV's. She motioned for us to move to the head of the line so we could go through first. Even with only Peter ahead of me I had to slow way down in order to see the road ahead. Eventually, we cleared the section & were on our way again. Wow!
We arrived in Whitehorse (my birthplace) about 6 PM. Needless to say I was excited. After unloading our gear, the hotel let us put our bikes in the parking. We were quite relieved to know they were safe, because there was a scuzzy bar next door with attendant drunks staggering around outside. (Suddsbury Friday night!)
We toured Main Street, had supper, then Peter & I went to a follies show which was entertaining in a silly kind of way. Dave went back to the room to see his team (Boston) loose.
The next day we all went different ways. I stayed in Whitehorse to be a tourist; Dave rode down to Skagway & Bennett Lake to checkout the start of the Chilkoot Pass. Peter continued on to Dawson City to recon the Dempster Hwy for us.
After a few photos of the Sign Post Forest we left Watson Lake. The Sign Post Forest was started in 1942 by a homesick US Army soldier who put up a sign stating how many miles it was to his home town from Watson Lake. Today travelers are encouraged to add signs to the collection which numbers over 70,000. (I found a sign from a couple in Whitby my former home town for 35 years.)
Although Watson Lake claims to be the "Gateway to the Yukon", it was depressing to see all the closed business as we rode through the town. The hotel we stayed in, had the original early 1900's atmosphere. Thankfully, the room was fine.
Not much wild life today. In fact, we only saw one brown bear who high tailed it into the woods when we slowed to take a picture of him.
The only other excitement was a kilometre of loose gravel & blinding dust. Over the winter as sections of the road broke up, the pavement is removed and is replaced with loose gravel until it could be rolled & tared. There had been several of these gravel sections over the past two days but this was the longest by far. Up to this point I had used the snowmobile over the water technique on these patches. Just give her & pray. That wasn't going to work this time. Fortunately, the flag person had seen us amongst a caravan of RV's. She motioned for us to move to the head of the line so we could go through first. Even with only Peter ahead of me I had to slow way down in order to see the road ahead. Eventually, we cleared the section & were on our way again. Wow!
We arrived in Whitehorse (my birthplace) about 6 PM. Needless to say I was excited. After unloading our gear, the hotel let us put our bikes in the parking. We were quite relieved to know they were safe, because there was a scuzzy bar next door with attendant drunks staggering around outside. (Suddsbury Friday night!)
We toured Main Street, had supper, then Peter & I went to a follies show which was entertaining in a silly kind of way. Dave went back to the room to see his team (Boston) loose.
The next day we all went different ways. I stayed in Whitehorse to be a tourist; Dave rode down to Skagway & Bennett Lake to checkout the start of the Chilkoot Pass. Peter continued on to Dawson City to recon the Dempster Hwy for us.
Day 11: Fort Nelson to Watson Lake; Hwy 97 520 kms
Fort Nelson to Watson Lake Map Link
http://maps.google.ca/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=Fort+Nelson,+BC&daddr=Watson+Lake,+Yukon+Territory&hl=en&geocode=FRlLgQMd7Mmv-Cn9hqANka3uUzFwAF69WEIuXw%3BFZmGlAMddCVU-CmjLLNbqVn7UzFT7qZgOA0Bjg&mra=ls&sll=49.891235,-97.15369&sspn=16.441396,56.513672&ie=UTF8&z=7
A much better day today. Lots of sun shine, excellent scenery, twisty roads & some interesting wild life. A six Bison day! Photos later when the high speed is available.
http://maps.google.ca/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=Fort+Nelson,+BC&daddr=Watson+Lake,+Yukon+Territory&hl=en&geocode=FRlLgQMd7Mmv-Cn9hqANka3uUzFwAF69WEIuXw%3BFZmGlAMddCVU-CmjLLNbqVn7UzFT7qZgOA0Bjg&mra=ls&sll=49.891235,-97.15369&sspn=16.441396,56.513672&ie=UTF8&z=7
A much better day today. Lots of sun shine, excellent scenery, twisty roads & some interesting wild life. A six Bison day! Photos later when the high speed is available.
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| Stone Sheep |
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| We decided we didn't need gas afterall! |
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| Cinnamon Bun Heaven |
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| The start of the "Dragon" in |
Wednesday, 8 June 2011
Day 10: Dawson Creek BC to Fort Nelson BC Hwy 97; 500kms
Dawson Creek to Fort Nelson
http://maps.google.ca/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=Dawson+Creek,+BC&daddr=Fort+Nelson,+BC&hl=en&geocode=FeO9UgMdjF_V-Cm5hwd-NpmRUzEwMXsqFTUBBQ%3BFRlLgQMd7Mmv-Cn9hqANka3uUzFwAF69WEIuXw&mra=ls&sll=49.891235,-97.15369&sspn=16.441396,56.513672&ie=UTF8&z=6
We started up the Alaska Hwy @ 8:30 in 3 degrees C under sunny skies. At km 27 we took a side trip to see the Kiskatinaw River Bridge one of the highway's original curved timber bridge , 531 ft or 162m long.
About 30 minutes later we crossed the Peace River Bridge which spans 2130 ft. The entire length is a metal grate not a motorcyclist's favourite surface. All you can do is let your arms turn to spaghetti & let the bike find its way across. Thank goodness it was dry. Unfortunately, we could find a place to take a decent picture of this impressive structure.
This part of the highway was kind of boring; not much in the way of interesting scenery. Parts of it were like hwy 11 near North Bay which I found interesting last year on the way to New Liskherd. Funny how things change. The escarpment on the right was similar to the Niagara Escarpment near Milton. We stopped for gas ( $1.54/litre) near Pink Mountain which I couldn't find no matter where I looked. When I went inside the young female cashier had on a pink top. Maybe that was it?
A cowboy served us lunch @ the Buckinghorse Rivr Lodge. Rather appropriate.
We continued with the foothills on our left, passing a couple of cars that had flipped over for not apparent reason. Two dead moose reminded us that they could be present. We actually did see a large female back in the woods. However, the best part of the day was a young black bear & her little cubs munching on the grass near the highway.
Eventually we arrived in Fort Nelson with the sun still shining, 31 degrees C. The shorts came out in a hurry.
http://maps.google.ca/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=Dawson+Creek,+BC&daddr=Fort+Nelson,+BC&hl=en&geocode=FeO9UgMdjF_V-Cm5hwd-NpmRUzEwMXsqFTUBBQ%3BFRlLgQMd7Mmv-Cn9hqANka3uUzFwAF69WEIuXw&mra=ls&sll=49.891235,-97.15369&sspn=16.441396,56.513672&ie=UTF8&z=6
We started up the Alaska Hwy @ 8:30 in 3 degrees C under sunny skies. At km 27 we took a side trip to see the Kiskatinaw River Bridge one of the highway's original curved timber bridge , 531 ft or 162m long.
About 30 minutes later we crossed the Peace River Bridge which spans 2130 ft. The entire length is a metal grate not a motorcyclist's favourite surface. All you can do is let your arms turn to spaghetti & let the bike find its way across. Thank goodness it was dry. Unfortunately, we could find a place to take a decent picture of this impressive structure.
This part of the highway was kind of boring; not much in the way of interesting scenery. Parts of it were like hwy 11 near North Bay which I found interesting last year on the way to New Liskherd. Funny how things change. The escarpment on the right was similar to the Niagara Escarpment near Milton. We stopped for gas ( $1.54/litre) near Pink Mountain which I couldn't find no matter where I looked. When I went inside the young female cashier had on a pink top. Maybe that was it?
A cowboy served us lunch @ the Buckinghorse Rivr Lodge. Rather appropriate.
We continued with the foothills on our left, passing a couple of cars that had flipped over for not apparent reason. Two dead moose reminded us that they could be present. We actually did see a large female back in the woods. However, the best part of the day was a young black bear & her little cubs munching on the grass near the highway.
Eventually we arrived in Fort Nelson with the sun still shining, 31 degrees C. The shorts came out in a hurry.
Tuesday, 7 June 2011
Day 9:Hinton AB to Dawson Creek BC; Hwys 40, 43 & 2 ; 500km
Below is a link to Google Maps of today's route.
I can't say that it was all that scenic or maybe we are becoming accustomed to seeing mountains, forests, rivers & the odd bit of wild life. If anything, it was desolate. About 183 kms between towns. Not a good situation for a medical emergency. They would have to travel quite a ways before they go to the scene to help.
As I was thinking that, a buck or doe bounded across the road about 200 feet in front of me. I am sorry I can't tell you which favour it was. I was too busy sounding the horn & applying the brakes to check out its' gender. It was long gone by the time I had slowed down.
Today we arrived in Dawson City the start of the Alaska hwy. There were a few required photos now that we had ridden 5500 kms to officially begin our trip up the Alaska Hwy etc.
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| Ceremonial Mile Zero |
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| The Original Mile Zero In Town |
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| Peter relaxing in the middle of the intersection |
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| An interesting pub in town |
Welcome aboard Dave....picture tomorrow
Monday, 6 June 2011
Day 8 Kamloops to Hinton AB 500 kms Yellowhead Hwy #5
Started off with a full tank of gas @ 1.08 per litre! I almost felt guilty filling up @ that price. NOT!
This is our start northward for the next 6000 kms. Another sunny, warm day without any bug cleansing rain. It was really a treat to ride with only motorcycle gear instead of 16 layer of crap to keep warm & dry.
The Yellowhead hwy follows the Thompson River, so more winding roads today. We both are getting quite comfortable on the loaded bikes now.
Very little traffic except as we approached Jasper, naturally. Yesterday, was really the first day of any traffic to speak of & only in the Kamloops area. Lots of bikers out enjoying the sunny weather. We have pretty much had the roads to ourselves except for the odd RV or 18 wheeler. Cool
At times the Thompson looked calm & almost frozen over, very glass like. I was tempted to walk across it to the other side, but I remembered that I don't walk on water well @ the best of times. Farther north rapids appeared. White caps & hay stacked covered the surface. I expected canoes & river kayakers to appear @ any moment to take advantage of the fast moving water, but today is a work day so none were found.
The mountains next to the Thompson were sparsely covered with trees. No snow capped mountains until we arrived @ Terry Fox Mountain. Terry had his head in the clouds today.
Later we came around a bend to find 4 Mountain Rams on the road! Like they owned it! Cars & trucks dodged ( pun intended) around them. As we slowly passed them, I stared one down hoping he wouldn't charge & "ram" me. Thankfully, nothing happened. He probably thought "Just another stupid tourist."
This is our start northward for the next 6000 kms. Another sunny, warm day without any bug cleansing rain. It was really a treat to ride with only motorcycle gear instead of 16 layer of crap to keep warm & dry.
The Yellowhead hwy follows the Thompson River, so more winding roads today. We both are getting quite comfortable on the loaded bikes now.
Very little traffic except as we approached Jasper, naturally. Yesterday, was really the first day of any traffic to speak of & only in the Kamloops area. Lots of bikers out enjoying the sunny weather. We have pretty much had the roads to ourselves except for the odd RV or 18 wheeler. Cool
At times the Thompson looked calm & almost frozen over, very glass like. I was tempted to walk across it to the other side, but I remembered that I don't walk on water well @ the best of times. Farther north rapids appeared. White caps & hay stacked covered the surface. I expected canoes & river kayakers to appear @ any moment to take advantage of the fast moving water, but today is a work day so none were found.
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| One of the Jasper Park locals |
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