Status Update



Saturday, 23 July 2011

Day 41 Sat. July 9th: Pentiction to Cranbrook BC; Crowsnest Pass 500 kms

Map Link:
http://maps.google.ca/maps?saddr=Penticton,+BC&daddr=Cranbrook,+BC&hl=en&sll=49.22836,-121.920776&sspn=2.062654,3.532104&geocode=FXci8wIdU1Pf-Cm1ODytd2KCVDFpFRkHLelGDw%3BFTZ38wIdnZQZ-SlDQKUGM99kUzGASu_aoxzXkg&mra=ls&z=7

We leave Dave's by 8 AM headed for Cranbrook via the Crowsnest Pass.  Highway  3 is a must for any motorcycle enthusiast.  Absolutely amazing.  It undulates through the mountains; twisting like a snake as it follows the river.  This has to be one of the most scenic roads in North America.

In Cranbrook Peter contacts one of his newspaper colleges in Calgary.  Bruce MacPherson is able to get us tickets to see Tom Cochran tomorrow night at the stampede.  Bonus!  Bruce lives near the LRT system south of Calgary.  Peter suggests we stay at a Super 8 nearby, so we can take it into Calgary.  Things are really starting to fall into place.  I am getting excited about this little detour.

A couple we talk with in Tim's, suggests we take Hwy 22 into Calgary instead of the TransCanada.  It is far more scenic.  We can do that what is a little side trip in 20,000 kms?

Friday, 22 July 2011

Day 40 Friday July 8th: Langley to Pentiction BC; 500 kms

Map Link to paste into browser:
http://maps.google.ca/maps?saddr=Langley,+BC&daddr=49.13536,-120.61938+to:Penticton,+BC&hl=en&sll=49.56647,-121.11713&sspn=2.048442,3.532104&geocode=FQMw7QIdfnCw-CnnBmXHzM-FVDGpbBqParbQUg%3BFQC_7QIdjH7P-ClB_pIQinSDVDFN_jZchjbmvQ%3BFXci8wIdU1Pf-Cm1ODytd2KCVDFpFRkHLelGDw&mra=dpe&mrsp=1&sz=8&via=1&z=8

We had a nice ride through the Okanogan Valley. More twisties & super scenery.  It reminded Peter of Niagara but it was a lot more lush.

Dave had the wine open when we arrived.  It was a real pleasure to park the bikes in the garage & to not have to unload everything for a change. We both enjoyed our first home cooked meal in weeks. Real food; oh man did it ever taste good. Later, we reminisced about the trip & exchanged stories.  Dave expects to go out East next summer, so we can get together again then. Sherri & Dave are serious CFL football fan so we watch with glee as Calgary beats Vancouver (they are Calgary fans.) Then we turn in for the night. Two dead horses.
Dave slaving away over the BBQ

The other night we watched the Royal newly weds visiting the Stampede & decided we might as well do the same thing.  Neither of us had ever been to the stampede.  It was one of those things I had always planned to do with my parents when I was in school, but summer work interfered with it.   I was especially interest in attending, because my Dad competed in the bronc & bull riding events at the Stampede for seven years. Yeah, haw!  Ride'em cowboy!

A little bit of heaven in their lovely home.
This changed our plans of returning through the States.  Oh boy! I get to see Canada on the way back. I feel kind of guilty. Peter has done the trip several times.  I hope it won't be too boring for him.

Thursday, 21 July 2011

Day 39 Thurs. July 7th: Cache Creek, Vancouver, Langley BC; 400 kms

Map Link to paste in browser.
http://maps.google.ca/maps?saddr=Cache+Creek,+British+Columbia&daddr=50.67626,-121.93248+to:Vancouver,+British+Columbia&hl=en&ll=49.954754,-122.321777&spn=1.827177,3.36731&sll=50.485474,-121.758728&sspn=0.903486,1.683655&geocode=FSNABwMdYMPE-Clh14UEZRWAVDEHdz-TaAlmxw%3BFSRCBQMdQHW7-CnxrqgKUoqAVDEQHeZEzYg5kw%3BFaqq7wIdOW6p-CmzT6lD8XOGVDGL84Gb6paRuw&mra=dpe&mrsp=1&sz=9&via=1&z=8

Fraser River
A hint of things to come
I had never been to Whistler or on hwy 99 before so Peter very graciously changed the route so I could experience both of them.  Our original plan had been to continue down hwy 97 to Hope BC.  Believe me the detour was worth it.  Hwy 99 quickly came to the top of the fantastic paved roads we had experienced.  Today was the first day that Peter rode with jeans, a t-shirt & cut off gloves.  He was in heaven; I wasn't far behind.  The twisties & scenery were amazing.





It looks like we are somewhere in Europe.
We stopped in Whistler Village for lunch.  Wow!  What a cool place.  Extreme mountain biking was the predominant summer activity.   Guys of all ages were decked out in off road riding gear.  The area under the  ski lift had been turned into an series of  whoops, jumps and half pipes.  Surprisingly, I didn't see any walking wounded.

About an hour & a half from Whistler we encounter strong gust of wind.  As we struggle toward Vancouver the sky turns ugly.  We barely get on the rain gear before the temperature drops & the car wash begins.  Fog, strong winds & a heavy downpours spoil our trip along the west shore into Vancouver (it never rains in Vancouver; right!) I am frustrated by my face shield which keeps fogging up. I raise it slightly to let in some air, but it doesn't seem to help.  Eventually, I figure out that it isn't the face shield fogging.  It is my glasses; dumb. Through the fog I can make out some large islands off shore.  The rain is torrential.  Both of us are soaked right through our rain gear.  Another first.

We stop a native store in Vancouver.  Peter purchases an authentic Cowichan Indian Sweater as a souvenir of the "Living the Dream" trip.  Man, the whale design is really sharp looking on him. Three young (8 to 10 year old) native girls try to interest us in other handmade items.  They are quite persuasive; excited about the up coming Pow Wow taking place on the weekend.

By the time we leave the shop it has stopped raining.  We decide to skip the BC crab & to head to Langley so we miss the traffic tomorrow morning.  There is only one complication. We are right in time for rush hour & more destruction.  They are in the process of building a new bridge into Vancouver.  Judging by the size of the pillars towering into the sky, it is going to be one mother of a bridge when they finish it.  Fortunately, motorcycles are permitted in the HOV lanes (pay attention Ontario.)  We quickly take advantage to this to make up some time.
 Tomorrow we see Dave in Penticton.

Day 38 Wed July 6th: Prince George to Cache Creek BC; 500 kms

Map Link to paste into browser:
http://maps.google.ca/maps?saddr=Prince+George,+BC&daddr=Cache+Creek,+British+Columbia&hl=en&sll=49.891235,-97.15369&sspn=29.36715,53.876953&geocode=FRC7NgMd-JOu-CnpD1nv95iIUzFQMHsqFTUBBQ%3BFSNABwMdYMPE-Clh14UEZRWAVDEHdz-TaAlmxw&mra=ls&z=7

Peter woke up @ 6 AM took one look at the rain & went back to bed.  That was a good idea.  The sun was shinning by 11 AM  when we continued on the Caribou Hwy (97).  It was fantastic to ride with out long johns & rain gear.  I felt 20 lbs lighter.  I could tell Peter was enjoying his new tires.  The pace had picked up significantly.   We arrived in Cache Creek around 4 PM where the temperature was 33 degrees.   Tomorrow's weather looks the same as today. Yippy not rain gear!
 I later learned the correct way to say Cache is Cash.  Huh!

Tuesday, 19 July 2011

Day 37 Smithers BC to Prince George BC; Yellowhead Hwy 400 kms

Map Link to paste into browser:
http://maps.google.ca/maps?saddr=Smithers,+BC&daddr=Prince+George,+British+Columbia&hl=en&ll=54.001312,-124.672852&spn=3.338638,6.734619&sll=49.891235,-97.15369&sspn=29.36715,53.876953&geocode=FfjnQwMdyJFr-CkXJ12cYgl1VDFPskzwdSNbpg%3BFRC7NgMd-JOu-CnpD1nv95iIUzFQMHsqFTUBBQ&mra=ls&z=7

It is overcase with drizzle as we continue to Prince George in search of a tire for Peter's bike.  He now has 18,000 kms on his tires.  The back one is really showing the wear.  I can tell Peter is riding conservatively ( I would be too.)  Both of us are praying tire will hold to Prince George & we can replace it.
Alaskan Huskies taking a break with us.

Although it is raining the scenery is spectacular (as always.)  Although it is only 400 kms, it seems to take forever to get to Prince George.  We head directly get to the Visitors Centre.  Peter makes a few phone calls but it doesn't sound promising.  Then we strike pay dirt!  A Yamaha dealer has tires & can install them today if we can get there before closing.  Ten minutes later we pull into their lot.  We unload the bike & it goes straight into the shop.  An hour & half later Peter gets his bike back with new boots.  Boy, do they look good.  What a relief.   Looking at his old tire we decide that there was no way he would have made Vancouver.  We would have had to wait for tires to be shipped in. Guess what? It had a large staple in the outer treat that we didn't even know about.  O brother!    Interestingly, we later learned that Dave stopped at the same dealer & got a new back tire for his KLR on the way home. Huh!
A cut from the Dempster Hwy 15K ago

After completing our third oil change (courtesy of Canadian Tire) we decide to celebrate with a Gin Martini, a bear, then finish supper with a Margarita.  We are happy to be able to continue our adventure.

The middle was very thin & flexible
New boots

Give me some gravel roads!

Day 36: July 4th Stewart BC to Hyder AK to Smithers BC; 400 kms

Map Link:
<iframe width="425" height="350" frameborder="0" scrolling="no" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" src="http://maps.google.ca/maps?f=d&amp;source=s_d&amp;saddr=Hyder,+AK,+United+States&amp;daddr=Smithers,+British+Columbia&amp;geocode=FZ08VQMdYO8_-Cn3MzfjhtELVDEMp4WY0khVAg%3BFfjnQwMdyJFr-CkXJ12cYgl1VDFPskzwdSNbpg&amp;hl=en&amp;mra=ls&amp;sll=56.110342,-128.888855&amp;sspn=0.880595,1.766052&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;ll=55.450085,-128.597535&amp;spn=1.33573,2.86021&amp;output=embed"></iframe><br /><small><a href="http://maps.google.ca/maps?f=d&amp;source=embed&amp;saddr=Hyder,+AK,+United+States&amp;daddr=Smithers,+British+Columbia&amp;geocode=FZ08VQMdYO8_-Cn3MzfjhtELVDEMp4WY0khVAg%3BFfjnQwMdyJFr-CkXJ12cYgl1VDFPskzwdSNbpg&amp;hl=en&amp;mra=ls&amp;sll=56.110342,-128.888855&amp;sspn=0.880595,1.766052&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;ll=55.450085,-128.597535&amp;spn=1.33573,2.86021" style="color:#0000FF;text-align:left">View Larger Map</a></small>

Today we headed to Hyder AK to view the glacier & grizzly bears feeding on the spawning salmon.  The trip to Hyder took all of five minutes.  The trip to the glacier took 3 hours!   Someone we questioned had said it was a 20 minute drive.  Boy, did they ever suck us in.

Hyder a unique little town.  It is completely surrounded by British Columbia.  The only way is by boat or the road we took.  There isn't a US boarder crossing; only a Canadian one when you leave Hyder.  The population of Hyder is probably less than 100.  Later in our trip we bumped into a fellow who had lived in Hyder 30 years ago.  The town consisted of 3 bars & a 100 people at that time.  The children were educated in Stewart BC because the town didn't have a school.  Believe me, it hasn't changed much, except now they have their own school now. Huh!
Lets step back in time.....1950? No, 2011!

The pavement ended abruptly under the sign welcoming us to Hyder.  A minefield of potholes covered the entire road.  Absolutely unbelievable!  Well, not really, when you consider the tax base.  There wasn't anything to do but to try & pick the best route.  Which holes look the deepest?  Okay, lets avoid that one.  Bam, bam! Opps, guessed wrong again. The bikes took a terrible pounding.   Even with my face shield closed, I winced as we picked out way through town.  Poor Suzie, I'm sorry.

After 20 minutes (it seemed much longer) we arrived at the Ranger Station adjacent to the river where the salmon spawn.  They had a long viewing area set up so you could watch the mother bears training the young ones to fish.  Only problem; no salmon so no bears.  We were one to two weeks to early. Damn!

Front row seats
Thank goodness as we progressed up the mountain the road improved; just your average gravel road.  Beside the road situation, the real reason it took so long to get to the top of the mountain was because we were stopping about every 300 feet to take pictures of the glacier.  It was about 8 kms long.   When we reached the top we were back in British Columbia!



The glacier goes in two directions here.

Who's afraid of heights?  Not me!

We celebrated the 4th of July in a Hyder pub with the locals before heading to Smithers BC in search of rear tire for Peter's bike.  The tire was well beyond its best before date.  We are worried that Peter could have a  blowout anytime!




Monday, 18 July 2011

Day 35 July 3th: Watson Lake YT to Stewart BC; Cassiar Hwy, 700 kms

Map Link:
<iframe width="425" height="350" frameborder="0" scrolling="no" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" src="http://maps.google.ca/maps?f=d&amp;source=s_d&amp;saddr=Watson+Lake,+YT&amp;daddr=Hyder,+AK,+United+States&amp;geocode=FZmGlAMddCVU-CmjLLNbqVn7UzFT7qZgOA0Bjg%3BFZ08VQMdYO8_-Cn3MzfjhtELVDEMp4WY0khVAg&amp;hl=en&amp;mra=ls&amp;sll=54.458255,-124.091367&amp;sspn=14.717492,28.256836&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;ll=57.98867,-129.494115&amp;spn=4.15342,1.57727&amp;output=embed"></iframe><br /><small><a href="http://maps.google.ca/maps?f=d&amp;source=embed&amp;saddr=Watson+Lake,+YT&amp;daddr=Hyder,+AK,+United+States&amp;geocode=FZmGlAMddCVU-CmjLLNbqVn7UzFT7qZgOA0Bjg%3BFZ08VQMdYO8_-Cn3MzfjhtELVDEMp4WY0khVAg&amp;hl=en&amp;mra=ls&amp;sll=54.458255,-124.091367&amp;sspn=14.717492,28.256836&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;ll=57.98867,-129.494115&amp;spn=4.15342,1.57727" style="color:#0000FF;text-align:left">View Larger Map</a></small>

I started the day with high expectations.  We were going to take the famous Cassiar Hwy from the top of BC through the interior of BC.  All the way through our travels, people had been raving how spectacular this highway was going to be.  Twisty roads, forest, mountains, plenty of wildlife.  In fact, we were told to be careful because we could encounter moose around any corner.  Okay, bring it on.

The first 25 kms reminded me of the Dempster Hwy, in that the road was elevated above the trees & relatively narrow.  I'm thinking, sure it is paved, but this is scary stuff just the same.  You don't want to go off the road here.  It could really hurt....sound familiar?  However, the road did get better as time went on.  Eventually, the road flattened out so flying off into the bush wasn't a concern.

Grass began to cover the area between the trees & the road.  As we rode on, a black bear stood up on his hind legs to watch us pass by.  His head & upper body rotated with us. Cool!  No, we didn't stop to take a picture.  A few minutes later we rounded a corner & had to suddenly brake to a stop.  There in the middle of the road was a young adult brown bear wondering around in a confused state.  She sniffed at car & hardtop camper as it went by.  Then she ( I'm guessing) turned her attention to us.  Oh,  great!  She walked up to Peter & circled his bike.  As she passed, Peter could have reached out & patted her head.   That's how close she was to him.  She sniffed around his bike much the same as a dog would trying to understand what it had encounter.  Meanwhile, I'm trying to figure out a way to take a picture & yet still be able to escape if I had to.  Then she starts heading towards me, so I scrap that idea.   She wasn't at all aggressive; just confused by all these strange things.  I too could have reached out & petted her head.  She was a beautiful rusty brown.  At the back of my bike she stopped briefly to sniff my tire.  Oh no, not my tire!  Please don't take a bite out of it.  I decide enough is enough.  I drop the bike into first gear & accelerate slowly away from her.  Peter had read my mind & was on his way too.  She just stood there & watched us leave.  Huh!


In places there was definite evidence of a forest fire.  The trees looked like burnt pipe cleaners, leaning every which way.  Someone had mentioned that they had taken the Cassiar after the recent forest fire & that it was difficult to see & breath because of the smoke.  Glad we missed that experience.

The winds picked up as we went through the of mountain passed.  Freezing rain, hail & strong winds made the trip to Meziadin  Junction miserable.  The junction was our intended destination for the day, but in spite of what the book said, there wasn't anything there.  Our only option was to continue to Stewart BC for the night.  What's another 60 kms at this point?

On the way to Stewart we passed another glacier in the twilight.  I made a promise to get a picture on the way out tomorrow.  (There is only one road in & out).   We got a room in the King Edward Motel without a problem.  Well, there was one minor thing.  We had to carry our stuff up a flight of stairs, but our room was at the top of the stairs.  It didn't matter, we were just happy to have a dry, warm place to spend the night.