Status Update



Tuesday, 2 August 2011

Day 48 Sat July 16th: Sault Ste Marie to Home; 800 kms (Peter)

Map Link:
http://maps.google.ca/maps?saddr=Sault+Ste.+Marie,+ON&daddr=44.51006,-79.09555+to:West+Hill,+Toronto,+Ontario&hl=en&ll=44.6413,-80.293579&spn=2.247305,3.532104&sll=45.135555,-81.782227&sspn=4.456018,7.064209&geocode=FdUKxgId0Ov4-il7jIEIFTE2TTHNIdsTtQ5bxQ%3BFWwrpwIdAhlJ-ynN-D5ngkzVTDG4PMxFa3N-Dw%3BFQ3YmwId-F9H-ymJfPMxUNrUiTFMZ-fgGkTIvA&mra=dpe&mrsp=1&sz=7&via=1&z=8

This is the part of the journey were Peter & I go separate ways.  He is going around Georgian Bay to Toronto, while Ken & I are going across it on the Chi Cheemaun ferry to Tobermory.  My trip is much shorter, only 600kms.

By the time I wake up Peter is long gone (7 AM).  Later, I learned that he had lunch with his friends in Bala as planned and was still home by 4 PM.  Wow! He also mentioned that it was funny riding alone. He kept looking in his mirror to see me; much the same as he had done the whole trip. "Where is the heck is Armstrong anyway?"  However, this time he didn't have to turn around and go back looking for me.

Ken and I wasted no time in getting to Southmouth Bay to catch the 1:30 ferry.  We arrived better than a half an hour early, expecting that we would have time to kill.  Not true. We were quickly ushered into the nearly full parking lot with the other motorcycles.  Shortly after that the Chi Cheemaun came around the corner and docked.  We were the last bikes to board the ferry.  Some of Peter's good luck must have rubbed off on me.  One of the staff members said it was the busiest day that seen since the beginning of the summer.  It wasn't even a holiday weekend.  We had a nice sunny crossing to Tobermory and headed home with quite a few "butt stops."  Maybe it knew the trip was coming to an end and it wanted to make the most of it as well.

I think that Peter's comments about our "Living The Dream" Trip are correct. Peter said, " It felt good to be home.  The Dream is over, but like the dream catchers I bought in Vancouver the memories will exist forever. We travelled 23,300 kms over the last 48 days, averaging 500 kms per day.  The sites we saw surpassed our wildest expectations.  The trip would not have been the same if we done is solo.  Riding with a person who became your friend and riding buddy made the trip what it was.  The memories will last forever.

This completes the "Living The Dream Trip."  Join us next year, when the 3 Amigos head through Eastern Canada.

Thanks for joining our adventure.
Peter, Doug & Dave

Day 47 Friday July 15th: Nipigon to Sault Ste Marie; Hwy 17 600 kms

Map Link:
http://maps.google.ca/maps?saddr=Nipigon,+Ontario&daddr=Sault+Ste.+Marie,+ON&hl=en&ll=47.776252,-86.275635&spn=4.245197,7.064209&sll=49.1553,-91.372305&sspn=4.131674,7.064209&geocode=FTj26wIdfFK9-ikd5658nhVcTTFLSxtMdyER2w%3BFdUKxgId0Ov4-il7jIEIFTE2TTHNIdsTtQ5bxQ&mra=ls&z=7
While we are finishing our oatmeal breakfast in Timmies a Ford Focus that looks like one of my neighbours pulls into the lot.  Shortly after another neighbour comes through the door looking for us.  He says, " I can smell your bike up on the hill from here!"  Ray & his wife Penny join us for a few minutes.   They are headed out west with Gordie (the Focus owner).  This is absolutely amazing. There is no way we could have planned this.  It just happened.  Serendipity strikes again.

The ride along the North Channel is outstanding; rugged shoreline and water looks so inviting.  I know I have said this before, but we actually do have some very nice scenery in Ontario.  You just have to drive to the top half of the map to see it.  The weather continues to cooperate with sunshine & mid twenty temperatures.  We arrive at the Super 8 in Sault Ste Marie at 5 PM.  While contemplating getting off the bikes, Ken Wolfe my other riding buddy arrives and beeps his horn to wake us up.  Ken has ridden from Mitchell to join us for the trip home.  Perfect timing. Wow!

That night we enjoy a steak dinner to celebrate on our last ride of the trip together.  It is hard to believe that "Peter and Doug's Excellent Adventure" is coming to an end.  It really has been a fantastic trip.  At least as we come back to reality we have some really good memories and stories to tell.

Day 46 Thurs July 14th: Kenora to Nipigon ON; TC Hwy 700 kms

Map Link:
http://maps.google.ca/maps?saddr=Kenora,+Ontario&daddr=Nipigon,+Ontario&hl=en&sll=50.078295,-99.536133&sspn=8.1096,14.128418&geocode=FevH9wIdi49e-ilbN6giDOu9UjEsleT6uHelCg%3BFTj26wIdfFK9-ikd5658nhVcTTFLSxtMdyER2w&mra=ls&z=7

Before we begin to ride we apply our sunscreen.  Peter has more to area cover than me. Today is the first day that Peter can ride in a T-shirt & jeans.   Freedom at last.  He has a large grin on his face as the sun beats down on him and he listens to the tunes coming from his satellite radio.  Oh yes!  We are roughing it!  Arriving at Thunder Bay by 5 PM, we decide to do another 100 kms to Kenora to cut a 100 kms from tomorrow's ride. Now we are in the same time zone as Toronto.  This makes it easy to catch up with our families on Skype.

Day 45 Wed July 13th: Regina SK to Kenora ON; 800 kms!

Map Link:
http://maps.google.ca/maps?saddr=Regina,+Saskatchewan&daddr=Kenora,+Ontario&hl=en&ll=50.078295,-99.536133&spn=8.1096,14.128418&sll=50.5021,-109.331875&sspn=8.038372,14.128418&geocode=FcLgAQMdNdTD-SnrPaX7QB4cUzGxVHu3ljJKNQ%3BFevH9wIdi49e-ilbN6giDOu9UjEsleT6uHelCg&mra=ls&z=6

Heavy head winds again, all day, but no rain & reasonable temperature of 20 degrees.  We decide to take advantage of the good weather and do an extra 200 kms to reach Kenora ON.  Now we are only one hour different than Toronto.  Quite a change from the 4 hour difference in Alaska.  We arrive at 7 PM after a long 800 km day.  Both our butts are begging for mercy.   Only 3 more days to home.

Day 44 Tues July 12 th: Calgary to Regina SK; 700 kms

Map Link:
http://maps.google.ca/maps?saddr=Calgary,+AB&daddr=Regina,+Saskatchewan&hl=en&sll=49.891235,-97.15369&sspn=32.685451,56.513672&geocode=FYjiCgMd-p8z-SnVP4SfA3BxUzE6tlK2sTttJg%3BFcLgAQMdNdTD-SnrPaX7QB4cUzGxVHu3ljJKNQ&mra=ls&z=6

Bruce dropped by to see us off at 8 AM. When he pounded on the door I was so startled that I just about jumped out of my riding pants. We leave Calgary under heavy rain with continues to Medicine Hat about 200 kms away.  It was kind of funny to look in the rear view mirror to see blue skies & sun shine while we were riding in a downpour.  Where was that nice weather when we were riding through there?

I expected the prairies to be completely flat, but in Alberta & mid way through Saskatchewan there were gentle rolling hills.  The flooding we had seen in North Dakota & Montana was evident in Saskatchewan.  Giant lakes came right up to the TransCanada Hwy.  At first I thought they were lakes, but then I realized most lakes don't have trees and fences in them!  The strong crosswinds & headwinds we experienced in the States buffeted us most of the day, forcing us to fill up every 250 kms instead of 350 kms.

Eventually, we arrived in Regina.  Then the fun began.  I guess there is a lot more happening in Regina than one would expect.  We finally found a room on our 3rd attempt.    We waited patiently in line at the check in desk while visiting Englishman told his dietary requirements to the desk clerk.  When we got our chance to speak with her, we explained that she didn't have to worry about us, "We're carnivorous  & we don't want no stinking vegetables!"

Wednesday, 27 July 2011

Day 43 Monday July 11th: The Calgary Stampede

While I updated the blog, Peter figured out a way for us to take our cowboy hats back with us.  Jackie very generously offered us them last night on our way to the show.  Yeehaw!  Who are those handsome dudes?

Today we are off to explore the stampede, but first I set up a meeting with my cousin who lives in Calgary.  We take the C-Train downtown.  We have lunch with Brian and catch up on things.  Ironically, he went out west after completing is law degree in the eighties.  At that time there wasn't a demand for lawyers in Ontario.  My, how times change.

Next, it was on the C-Train back to the Stampede.  Wow, we are becoming regulars on this thing.  It is ever convenient to use.


The Stampede midway is much like the one in Toronto.  I feel right at home.  Later we watch the "Human Cannon Ball"
No, he didn't fall short of the net.


There is an agricultural section just like the Royal Winter Fall.  I try my hand at some of the activities...



We decide to give our feet a rest so we went into the Saddledome to watch some of the events.  Man, did we luck out.  The "Cowboy Up" event was about to start.  This event required the rider & horse to complete typical activities a cowhand and horse could encounter during a working day.  There were about 13 different activities;  everything from a simulated snow storm to picking up a rider & dropping them off at a different location.  The most challenging part involved the rider carrying a bucket of water while traversing a moving bridge, then a pile of logs on the ground, then a stationary platform, finishing by placing the bucket on a barrel.  All this is done while riding the horse bareback!  One rider fell during this segment & was taken to hospital.  Each rider was timed & bonus points were awarded for ingenuity & style.  Excellent!

The next event was "Penning".  Thirty cows were held in a group by two riders.  When the bell sounded, 3 other riders had to cut 3 cows with the same number out of the herd & chase them into a pen.  If a cow with a different number than the one called ended up in the pen they team was disqualified.  It was funny how some cow groups cooperated, while others were extremely difficult to get penned.  Excellent horse skills were required to get the job done as quickly as possible.  One team was disqualified for taking more than a minute to pen the 3 cows.  The winning team consisted of a family.  The father, the daughter and grand daughter.  Cool!


We had to miss the sheep dogs & sheep event.  The "Chucks" were about to start.  We had standing room only tickets but the action was still great.  The idea of the race is that the outriders must load a cook stove & tent into the back of the wagon.  Then they mount up and follow the wagon as it does a figure 8 around some barrels before heading out onto the race track for a lap of the track.  PLEASE WATCH THESE VIDEOS IN FULL SCREEN to capture the feeling.

I was a little disappointed with the chuck wagon races.  I liked the wagon part of the race, but the outriders were kind of Mickey Mouse.  In the old days the riders were cowboys.  Now the cowboys are dressed like jockeys with helmets & no leather chaps.  Bummer! Crap! They didn't look like they belonged at all.  What a stupid idea.  They could at lease glue cowboy hats over the helmets & wear chaps.  When my Dad & I watched the chucks in the old days, they were real cowboys & real working horses.  Now they us retired thoroughbred horses to pull the wagons & as outrider mounts.  That's okay I suppose.  At least they save the horses from the glue factory.  You can also bet on the outcome of the race.  There probably was some betting in the past, but now it just sounded like going to the races at Mohawk.  Not what I expected at all.  Mind you the wagons sliding on the mud looked spectacular.  Hey, they got 4 wheels & they are racing. What can I say?


In this video watch the screen in the scene first.

Tuesday, 26 July 2011

Day 42 Sun July 10th:Cranbrook BC to Calgary AB; Hwy 22, 400 kms

Map Link:
http://maps.google.ca/maps?saddr=Cranbrook,+BC&daddr=Calgary,+AB&hl=en&sll=49.339441,-117.575684&sspn=4.116113,7.064209&geocode=FTZ38wIdnZQZ-SlDQKUGM99kUzGASu_aoxzXkg%3BFYjiCgMd-p8z-SnVP4SfA3BxUzE6tlK2sTttJg&mra=ls&z=8

Today is the end of the mountains for us.  It is sad in a way.  They have been such a fun part of our trip in spite of the rain that usually accompanied crossing them.  I have come to accept that has the price to pay for fantastic scenery & twisty roads.

We take hwy 22 up to the South end of Calgary.  The foothills are off in the distance on the left, clouds hiding the top of the Rockies in a blue haze.  Wow!  I could look at them for hours.  I remembered how much I enjoyed them 10 years ago when I took the Rocky Mountaineer trip.  I kept wondering how on earth my Dad could leave this part of Alberta.  However, it was long before the oil boom. Things were pretty dead in Alberta, so he had to go to Ontario to find work to support his family. What a shame.  I could have been a cowboy too!

Some of the biggest ranches in Canada line both sides of the windy highway. Suddenly something catches my eye. One of the ranches has baseball caps on the top of each fence post.  It really looks funny to see them atop of post after post.  For several minutes the baseball caps keep an eye on us as we pass.  I guess that is one way to identify your ranch from the rest of them.   The ranches did all look the same.    On the way, I saw a sign to Nanton my Dad's birthplace.  I really am in my Dad's back yard now.  It was a very pleasant trip; sun shining, curvy roads, warm weather and beautiful scenery.  More motorcycle Nirvana.  It's a tough job, but we can do it.

We check into the Super 8 @ 2 PM & do the baggage cart thing with our stuff.  Then Bruce MacPherson picks us up and we go to his place for a steak BBQ with his wife Jackie.   As we sit on the deck enjoying a beverage, I can't help but think "this is what summer is all about. Good weather and good times with friends." It is really nice to socialize and have a home cooked meal once again.

After supper with Bruce drops us off at the "C-Train" which takes us to the stampede.  The C-Train is an LRT train similar to the one in Scarborough.  It must have rubber tires.  We are whisked silently into Calgary. Quite a difference from the Go Train.

As we enter the show tent at 7:30 there is a small crowd of all ages. The tickets said show was to start at 7 PM, but nothing is happening.   Everyone is standing around drinking & talking. The stage is empty.  Loud music is playing over the crowd. Dam, I forgot my ear plugs!  Once our eyes become accustomed to the darkness, Peter & I are fall under the spell of a "Bud Light" girl & buy a regular can of beer for $7.50 each!

We head outside to side at a table & wait. Time passes slowly in spite of the people watching.  We learn that the show isn't really going to start until 11:00 PM it was the doors that opened at 7 PM.  Boy, you could get quite a drunk on waiting.   Now I know why my youngest son goes to the concerts at 10:30.   At 9:30 the two old farts call it a night & head back to the motel.  We decide we will take an extra day in Calgary to recharge our batteries and to see the rodeo.  If we do 700 kms/day we can be in Toronto in 5 days.

Saturday, 23 July 2011

Day 41 Sat. July 9th: Pentiction to Cranbrook BC; Crowsnest Pass 500 kms

Map Link:
http://maps.google.ca/maps?saddr=Penticton,+BC&daddr=Cranbrook,+BC&hl=en&sll=49.22836,-121.920776&sspn=2.062654,3.532104&geocode=FXci8wIdU1Pf-Cm1ODytd2KCVDFpFRkHLelGDw%3BFTZ38wIdnZQZ-SlDQKUGM99kUzGASu_aoxzXkg&mra=ls&z=7

We leave Dave's by 8 AM headed for Cranbrook via the Crowsnest Pass.  Highway  3 is a must for any motorcycle enthusiast.  Absolutely amazing.  It undulates through the mountains; twisting like a snake as it follows the river.  This has to be one of the most scenic roads in North America.

In Cranbrook Peter contacts one of his newspaper colleges in Calgary.  Bruce MacPherson is able to get us tickets to see Tom Cochran tomorrow night at the stampede.  Bonus!  Bruce lives near the LRT system south of Calgary.  Peter suggests we stay at a Super 8 nearby, so we can take it into Calgary.  Things are really starting to fall into place.  I am getting excited about this little detour.

A couple we talk with in Tim's, suggests we take Hwy 22 into Calgary instead of the TransCanada.  It is far more scenic.  We can do that what is a little side trip in 20,000 kms?

Friday, 22 July 2011

Day 40 Friday July 8th: Langley to Pentiction BC; 500 kms

Map Link to paste into browser:
http://maps.google.ca/maps?saddr=Langley,+BC&daddr=49.13536,-120.61938+to:Penticton,+BC&hl=en&sll=49.56647,-121.11713&sspn=2.048442,3.532104&geocode=FQMw7QIdfnCw-CnnBmXHzM-FVDGpbBqParbQUg%3BFQC_7QIdjH7P-ClB_pIQinSDVDFN_jZchjbmvQ%3BFXci8wIdU1Pf-Cm1ODytd2KCVDFpFRkHLelGDw&mra=dpe&mrsp=1&sz=8&via=1&z=8

We had a nice ride through the Okanogan Valley. More twisties & super scenery.  It reminded Peter of Niagara but it was a lot more lush.

Dave had the wine open when we arrived.  It was a real pleasure to park the bikes in the garage & to not have to unload everything for a change. We both enjoyed our first home cooked meal in weeks. Real food; oh man did it ever taste good. Later, we reminisced about the trip & exchanged stories.  Dave expects to go out East next summer, so we can get together again then. Sherri & Dave are serious CFL football fan so we watch with glee as Calgary beats Vancouver (they are Calgary fans.) Then we turn in for the night. Two dead horses.
Dave slaving away over the BBQ

The other night we watched the Royal newly weds visiting the Stampede & decided we might as well do the same thing.  Neither of us had ever been to the stampede.  It was one of those things I had always planned to do with my parents when I was in school, but summer work interfered with it.   I was especially interest in attending, because my Dad competed in the bronc & bull riding events at the Stampede for seven years. Yeah, haw!  Ride'em cowboy!

A little bit of heaven in their lovely home.
This changed our plans of returning through the States.  Oh boy! I get to see Canada on the way back. I feel kind of guilty. Peter has done the trip several times.  I hope it won't be too boring for him.

Thursday, 21 July 2011

Day 39 Thurs. July 7th: Cache Creek, Vancouver, Langley BC; 400 kms

Map Link to paste in browser.
http://maps.google.ca/maps?saddr=Cache+Creek,+British+Columbia&daddr=50.67626,-121.93248+to:Vancouver,+British+Columbia&hl=en&ll=49.954754,-122.321777&spn=1.827177,3.36731&sll=50.485474,-121.758728&sspn=0.903486,1.683655&geocode=FSNABwMdYMPE-Clh14UEZRWAVDEHdz-TaAlmxw%3BFSRCBQMdQHW7-CnxrqgKUoqAVDEQHeZEzYg5kw%3BFaqq7wIdOW6p-CmzT6lD8XOGVDGL84Gb6paRuw&mra=dpe&mrsp=1&sz=9&via=1&z=8

Fraser River
A hint of things to come
I had never been to Whistler or on hwy 99 before so Peter very graciously changed the route so I could experience both of them.  Our original plan had been to continue down hwy 97 to Hope BC.  Believe me the detour was worth it.  Hwy 99 quickly came to the top of the fantastic paved roads we had experienced.  Today was the first day that Peter rode with jeans, a t-shirt & cut off gloves.  He was in heaven; I wasn't far behind.  The twisties & scenery were amazing.





It looks like we are somewhere in Europe.
We stopped in Whistler Village for lunch.  Wow!  What a cool place.  Extreme mountain biking was the predominant summer activity.   Guys of all ages were decked out in off road riding gear.  The area under the  ski lift had been turned into an series of  whoops, jumps and half pipes.  Surprisingly, I didn't see any walking wounded.

About an hour & a half from Whistler we encounter strong gust of wind.  As we struggle toward Vancouver the sky turns ugly.  We barely get on the rain gear before the temperature drops & the car wash begins.  Fog, strong winds & a heavy downpours spoil our trip along the west shore into Vancouver (it never rains in Vancouver; right!) I am frustrated by my face shield which keeps fogging up. I raise it slightly to let in some air, but it doesn't seem to help.  Eventually, I figure out that it isn't the face shield fogging.  It is my glasses; dumb. Through the fog I can make out some large islands off shore.  The rain is torrential.  Both of us are soaked right through our rain gear.  Another first.

We stop a native store in Vancouver.  Peter purchases an authentic Cowichan Indian Sweater as a souvenir of the "Living the Dream" trip.  Man, the whale design is really sharp looking on him. Three young (8 to 10 year old) native girls try to interest us in other handmade items.  They are quite persuasive; excited about the up coming Pow Wow taking place on the weekend.

By the time we leave the shop it has stopped raining.  We decide to skip the BC crab & to head to Langley so we miss the traffic tomorrow morning.  There is only one complication. We are right in time for rush hour & more destruction.  They are in the process of building a new bridge into Vancouver.  Judging by the size of the pillars towering into the sky, it is going to be one mother of a bridge when they finish it.  Fortunately, motorcycles are permitted in the HOV lanes (pay attention Ontario.)  We quickly take advantage to this to make up some time.
 Tomorrow we see Dave in Penticton.

Day 38 Wed July 6th: Prince George to Cache Creek BC; 500 kms

Map Link to paste into browser:
http://maps.google.ca/maps?saddr=Prince+George,+BC&daddr=Cache+Creek,+British+Columbia&hl=en&sll=49.891235,-97.15369&sspn=29.36715,53.876953&geocode=FRC7NgMd-JOu-CnpD1nv95iIUzFQMHsqFTUBBQ%3BFSNABwMdYMPE-Clh14UEZRWAVDEHdz-TaAlmxw&mra=ls&z=7

Peter woke up @ 6 AM took one look at the rain & went back to bed.  That was a good idea.  The sun was shinning by 11 AM  when we continued on the Caribou Hwy (97).  It was fantastic to ride with out long johns & rain gear.  I felt 20 lbs lighter.  I could tell Peter was enjoying his new tires.  The pace had picked up significantly.   We arrived in Cache Creek around 4 PM where the temperature was 33 degrees.   Tomorrow's weather looks the same as today. Yippy not rain gear!
 I later learned the correct way to say Cache is Cash.  Huh!

Tuesday, 19 July 2011

Day 37 Smithers BC to Prince George BC; Yellowhead Hwy 400 kms

Map Link to paste into browser:
http://maps.google.ca/maps?saddr=Smithers,+BC&daddr=Prince+George,+British+Columbia&hl=en&ll=54.001312,-124.672852&spn=3.338638,6.734619&sll=49.891235,-97.15369&sspn=29.36715,53.876953&geocode=FfjnQwMdyJFr-CkXJ12cYgl1VDFPskzwdSNbpg%3BFRC7NgMd-JOu-CnpD1nv95iIUzFQMHsqFTUBBQ&mra=ls&z=7

It is overcase with drizzle as we continue to Prince George in search of a tire for Peter's bike.  He now has 18,000 kms on his tires.  The back one is really showing the wear.  I can tell Peter is riding conservatively ( I would be too.)  Both of us are praying tire will hold to Prince George & we can replace it.
Alaskan Huskies taking a break with us.

Although it is raining the scenery is spectacular (as always.)  Although it is only 400 kms, it seems to take forever to get to Prince George.  We head directly get to the Visitors Centre.  Peter makes a few phone calls but it doesn't sound promising.  Then we strike pay dirt!  A Yamaha dealer has tires & can install them today if we can get there before closing.  Ten minutes later we pull into their lot.  We unload the bike & it goes straight into the shop.  An hour & half later Peter gets his bike back with new boots.  Boy, do they look good.  What a relief.   Looking at his old tire we decide that there was no way he would have made Vancouver.  We would have had to wait for tires to be shipped in. Guess what? It had a large staple in the outer treat that we didn't even know about.  O brother!    Interestingly, we later learned that Dave stopped at the same dealer & got a new back tire for his KLR on the way home. Huh!
A cut from the Dempster Hwy 15K ago

After completing our third oil change (courtesy of Canadian Tire) we decide to celebrate with a Gin Martini, a bear, then finish supper with a Margarita.  We are happy to be able to continue our adventure.

The middle was very thin & flexible
New boots

Give me some gravel roads!

Day 36: July 4th Stewart BC to Hyder AK to Smithers BC; 400 kms

Map Link:
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Today we headed to Hyder AK to view the glacier & grizzly bears feeding on the spawning salmon.  The trip to Hyder took all of five minutes.  The trip to the glacier took 3 hours!   Someone we questioned had said it was a 20 minute drive.  Boy, did they ever suck us in.

Hyder a unique little town.  It is completely surrounded by British Columbia.  The only way is by boat or the road we took.  There isn't a US boarder crossing; only a Canadian one when you leave Hyder.  The population of Hyder is probably less than 100.  Later in our trip we bumped into a fellow who had lived in Hyder 30 years ago.  The town consisted of 3 bars & a 100 people at that time.  The children were educated in Stewart BC because the town didn't have a school.  Believe me, it hasn't changed much, except now they have their own school now. Huh!
Lets step back in time.....1950? No, 2011!

The pavement ended abruptly under the sign welcoming us to Hyder.  A minefield of potholes covered the entire road.  Absolutely unbelievable!  Well, not really, when you consider the tax base.  There wasn't anything to do but to try & pick the best route.  Which holes look the deepest?  Okay, lets avoid that one.  Bam, bam! Opps, guessed wrong again. The bikes took a terrible pounding.   Even with my face shield closed, I winced as we picked out way through town.  Poor Suzie, I'm sorry.

After 20 minutes (it seemed much longer) we arrived at the Ranger Station adjacent to the river where the salmon spawn.  They had a long viewing area set up so you could watch the mother bears training the young ones to fish.  Only problem; no salmon so no bears.  We were one to two weeks to early. Damn!

Front row seats
Thank goodness as we progressed up the mountain the road improved; just your average gravel road.  Beside the road situation, the real reason it took so long to get to the top of the mountain was because we were stopping about every 300 feet to take pictures of the glacier.  It was about 8 kms long.   When we reached the top we were back in British Columbia!



The glacier goes in two directions here.

Who's afraid of heights?  Not me!

We celebrated the 4th of July in a Hyder pub with the locals before heading to Smithers BC in search of rear tire for Peter's bike.  The tire was well beyond its best before date.  We are worried that Peter could have a  blowout anytime!




Monday, 18 July 2011

Day 35 July 3th: Watson Lake YT to Stewart BC; Cassiar Hwy, 700 kms

Map Link:
<iframe width="425" height="350" frameborder="0" scrolling="no" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" src="http://maps.google.ca/maps?f=d&amp;source=s_d&amp;saddr=Watson+Lake,+YT&amp;daddr=Hyder,+AK,+United+States&amp;geocode=FZmGlAMddCVU-CmjLLNbqVn7UzFT7qZgOA0Bjg%3BFZ08VQMdYO8_-Cn3MzfjhtELVDEMp4WY0khVAg&amp;hl=en&amp;mra=ls&amp;sll=54.458255,-124.091367&amp;sspn=14.717492,28.256836&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;ll=57.98867,-129.494115&amp;spn=4.15342,1.57727&amp;output=embed"></iframe><br /><small><a href="http://maps.google.ca/maps?f=d&amp;source=embed&amp;saddr=Watson+Lake,+YT&amp;daddr=Hyder,+AK,+United+States&amp;geocode=FZmGlAMddCVU-CmjLLNbqVn7UzFT7qZgOA0Bjg%3BFZ08VQMdYO8_-Cn3MzfjhtELVDEMp4WY0khVAg&amp;hl=en&amp;mra=ls&amp;sll=54.458255,-124.091367&amp;sspn=14.717492,28.256836&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;ll=57.98867,-129.494115&amp;spn=4.15342,1.57727" style="color:#0000FF;text-align:left">View Larger Map</a></small>

I started the day with high expectations.  We were going to take the famous Cassiar Hwy from the top of BC through the interior of BC.  All the way through our travels, people had been raving how spectacular this highway was going to be.  Twisty roads, forest, mountains, plenty of wildlife.  In fact, we were told to be careful because we could encounter moose around any corner.  Okay, bring it on.

The first 25 kms reminded me of the Dempster Hwy, in that the road was elevated above the trees & relatively narrow.  I'm thinking, sure it is paved, but this is scary stuff just the same.  You don't want to go off the road here.  It could really hurt....sound familiar?  However, the road did get better as time went on.  Eventually, the road flattened out so flying off into the bush wasn't a concern.

Grass began to cover the area between the trees & the road.  As we rode on, a black bear stood up on his hind legs to watch us pass by.  His head & upper body rotated with us. Cool!  No, we didn't stop to take a picture.  A few minutes later we rounded a corner & had to suddenly brake to a stop.  There in the middle of the road was a young adult brown bear wondering around in a confused state.  She sniffed at car & hardtop camper as it went by.  Then she ( I'm guessing) turned her attention to us.  Oh,  great!  She walked up to Peter & circled his bike.  As she passed, Peter could have reached out & patted her head.   That's how close she was to him.  She sniffed around his bike much the same as a dog would trying to understand what it had encounter.  Meanwhile, I'm trying to figure out a way to take a picture & yet still be able to escape if I had to.  Then she starts heading towards me, so I scrap that idea.   She wasn't at all aggressive; just confused by all these strange things.  I too could have reached out & petted her head.  She was a beautiful rusty brown.  At the back of my bike she stopped briefly to sniff my tire.  Oh no, not my tire!  Please don't take a bite out of it.  I decide enough is enough.  I drop the bike into first gear & accelerate slowly away from her.  Peter had read my mind & was on his way too.  She just stood there & watched us leave.  Huh!


In places there was definite evidence of a forest fire.  The trees looked like burnt pipe cleaners, leaning every which way.  Someone had mentioned that they had taken the Cassiar after the recent forest fire & that it was difficult to see & breath because of the smoke.  Glad we missed that experience.

The winds picked up as we went through the of mountain passed.  Freezing rain, hail & strong winds made the trip to Meziadin  Junction miserable.  The junction was our intended destination for the day, but in spite of what the book said, there wasn't anything there.  Our only option was to continue to Stewart BC for the night.  What's another 60 kms at this point?

On the way to Stewart we passed another glacier in the twilight.  I made a promise to get a picture on the way out tomorrow.  (There is only one road in & out).   We got a room in the King Edward Motel without a problem.  Well, there was one minor thing.  We had to carry our stuff up a flight of stairs, but our room was at the top of the stairs.  It didn't matter, we were just happy to have a dry, warm place to spend the night.

Wednesday, 13 July 2011

Day 34 July 2nd: Whitehorse to Watson Lake; 400kms

Map Link:
<iframe width="425" height="350" frameborder="0" scrolling="no" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" src="http://maps.google.ca/maps?f=d&amp;source=s_d&amp;saddr=Whitehorse,+YT&amp;daddr=Watson+Lake,+Yukon+Territory&amp;geocode=FXt2ngMd8Ezz9ymBU7yAmERUUTFLNdBk6rc95A%3BFZmGlAMddCVU-CmjLLNbqVn7UzFT7qZgOA0Bjg&amp;hl=en&amp;mra=ls&amp;sll=59.99854,-136.03742&amp;sspn=2.065717,7.064209&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;ll=59.998986,-136.032715&amp;spn=0.83008,6.35415&amp;output=embed"></iframe><br /><small><a href="http://maps.google.ca/maps?f=d&amp;source=embed&amp;saddr=Whitehorse,+YT&amp;daddr=Watson+Lake,+Yukon+Territory&amp;geocode=FXt2ngMd8Ezz9ymBU7yAmERUUTFLNdBk6rc95A%3BFZmGlAMddCVU-CmjLLNbqVn7UzFT7qZgOA0Bjg&amp;hl=en&amp;mra=ls&amp;sll=59.99854,-136.03742&amp;sspn=2.065717,7.064209&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;ll=59.998986,-136.032715&amp;spn=0.83008,6.35415" style="color:#0000FF;text-align:left">View Larger Map</a></small>

Before we left Peter made a few phone calls in an attempt to get a new rear tire for his bike.  No luck.  Smithers BC & Prince George or Rupert are the next places we will check for a tire.

On the way to Watson Lake we encountered several convoys of motor homes going North.  On group had 22 large bus motor homes.  It would have been very difficult to pass them.  We probably would have had to park the bikes for 2 hours in order to let the motor homes get ahead of us.  Peter's idea to go in June was the correct call.

We checked into a historic Air Force barracks hotel in Watson Lake.  It was really cool.  During the second war air force pilots had stayed in this building when shuttling supplies to Russia.  The majority of the pilots were women because the men had been sent overseas.  Ironically, a German Canadian had lovingly restored the pilots' living quarters.  The password for the internet was "I love Canada".   We ate our meals in a cafe that was attached to a local truck repair garage.  Luckily the owner of the Air Force Lodge had told us what to look for in order to find the restaurant.  We had completely missed it the first time we were in Watson Lake.


Day 33 July 1st: Haines Jct YT, Haines AK, Whitehorse YT; 700 kms

Map Link:
<iframe width="425" height="350" frameborder="0" scrolling="no" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" src="http://maps.google.ca/maps?f=d&amp;source=s_d&amp;saddr=Haines+Junction,+YT&amp;daddr=Haines,+AK,+United+States+to:60.62691,-137.27775+to:Whitehorse,+YT&amp;geocode=FYssnwMdCsLN9yn1B9Y5ADhTUTGmQqZLc3jWpQ%3BFfndhwMd-EXt9ymNuVEolx8AVDGOEf3qYJrxtA%3BFd4XnQMdyk7R9ykz_2sRNFBTUTGoO9ZguBuVTQ%3BFXt2ngMd8Ezz9ymBU7yAmERUUTFLNdBk6rc95A&amp;hl=en&amp;mra=dpe&amp;mrsp=2&amp;sz=7&amp;via=2&amp;sll=59.99854,-136.03742&amp;sspn=2.065717,7.064209&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;ll=59.99854,-136.03742&amp;spn=2.065717,7.064209&amp;output=embed"></iframe><br /><small><a href="http://maps.google.ca/maps?f=d&amp;source=embed&amp;saddr=Haines+Junction,+YT&amp;daddr=Haines,+AK,+United+States+to:60.62691,-137.27775+to:Whitehorse,+YT&amp;geocode=FYssnwMdCsLN9yn1B9Y5ADhTUTGmQqZLc3jWpQ%3BFfndhwMd-EXt9ymNuVEolx8AVDGOEf3qYJrxtA%3BFd4XnQMdyk7R9ykz_2sRNFBTUTGoO9ZguBuVTQ%3BFXt2ngMd8Ezz9ymBU7yAmERUUTFLNdBk6rc95A&amp;hl=en&amp;mra=dpe&amp;mrsp=2&amp;sz=7&amp;via=2&amp;sll=59.99854,-136.03742&amp;sspn=2.065717,7.064209&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;ll=59.99854,-136.03742&amp;spn=2.065717,7.064209" style="color:#0000FF;text-align:left">View Larger Map</a></small>

Happy Canada Day.  We decide to go back into Alaska (Haines), take the ferry to Skagway AK then up to Whitehorse like the gold seekers did way back when.  Dave had checked this out on his day away & it sounded worthwhile.

We experienced more outstanding scenery on the way to Haines.  Shortly after we started down the road I saw a large brown  bear in the grass.  The thought crossed my mind that I should stop & take a picture.  Then, I thought better of it.  He was really big & was already watching me.  People are not the top of the food chain up here.

When we arrived at the Haines ferry we were told that the hourly ferry only took passengers.  The 8 PM ferry takes passengers & vehicles.  It was still early so, we decided to have a second breakfast before we headed back up the same road to Haines Jct.  The road was excellent; winding with the river.  As we crossed the mountains, we experienced the usual mountain pass rain.   It seems that every time we cross a mountain range it rains.  Time passed quickly as sunny periods broke through the clouds.  I saw another small brown bear & black bear in the road side grass.

Everything was just terrific until the last 30 kms to Whitehorse.  Destruction again.  Gravel & dust just like the Dempster Hwy.  I couldn't believe the ignorance of the car & truck drivers.  They were blasting along like we weren't on the road.  At times, I couldn't see Peter 3 seconds ahead of me, because of the dust.  I was pissed, but there was nothing I could do about it but to focus on staying vertical.  Eventually, we made it safely to Whitehorse. 

We stopped at the same hotel as last time but it was completely booked.  The hotel clerk phoned a few places & found us a room.  Thank you.

Monday, 11 July 2011

Day 32 June 30th : Tok AK to Haines Jct YT; 500 kms

Map Link:
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After 13 days in Alaska we are headed back to Canada.  I'm kind of sorry to leave.  When I started this trip I really wasn't all that interested in going to Alaska, but its beauty has won me over.  I will definitely return to the land of snow capped mountains & Subaru's.  Yes, Subaru's.  They are the car of choice up here, just as in Vermont.  Everywhere we went, there were Subaru's of all ages & descriptions.   At least 2 of every 10 cars or trucks were Subaru's.  Yes!  I could feel right at home here.

Last night we met a gentleman with an BMW R80GS the very first model of the famous GS series.  He told us he started riding at age 60.  The more he talked about where he had been, the more curious I got about the number of miles on his bike.  I went over & took a look at the odometer. It registered 355,000 miles.  "Not those idy, biddy kilometres," as he put it.  That is 500,000 kilometres. Wow!  It was difficult to estimate his age & he wouldn't divulge how many miles he did in a typical year, so we couldn't figure out how old he was.  Peter & I decided there was no way we could catch up to him no matter how we tried.


We started down the Alaska Hwy to Haines Jct.  It wasn't long before the pavement disappeared, then reappeared.  This continued for over 50kms. Patches of pavement for a 100 metre, then patches of deep gravel for 100 metres.   Then it got worse. Mud, rain, more gravel.  It took me a while to get my gravel legs back again.  It wasn't supposed to be like this.  We had ordered sunshine, paved roads and beautiful scenery.  Granted, the scenery was nice, mountains on both sides, a river on one side, but you had to concentrate on the road.   Had it been good weather, we could have seen Mt. Logan which is Canada's highest mountain.  We finally hit pavement which lasted the final 100 kms.  When the wind wasn't trying to knock us down we could actually enjoy the sun & scenery.  We arrived in Haines Jct. tired & late. Again the motel gods smiled on us & we got the last room in town.  The owner was nice to us & gave us the suite for the regular price.  It was similar to the B&B suite we stayed had in Girdwood; kitchen, bath, two bedrooms & living room with kitchen table.  A good reward for a difficult day.

Saturday, 9 July 2011

Day 31:Wed June 29th, Valdez to Tok AK; 400kms

Map Link:
<iframe width="425" height="350" frameborder="0" scrolling="no" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" src="http://maps.google.ca/maps?f=d&amp;source=s_d&amp;saddr=Valdez,+AK,+USA&amp;daddr=Tok,+AK,+United+States&amp;hl=en&amp;geocode=FVHIpAMd0-ZG9yk5dRoPA0S2VjFPoZHJ7bRUHw%3BFdtwxgMdrDZ69ynBOwHudXNKUTHo1Et_eTMDIg&amp;mra=ls&amp;sll=49.891235,-97.15369&amp;sspn=21.334973,56.513672&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;ll=62.285811,-144.915161&amp;spn=0.894154,2.334595&amp;z=8&amp;output=embed"></iframe><br /><small><a href="http://maps.google.ca/maps?f=d&amp;source=embed&amp;saddr=Valdez,+AK,+USA&amp;daddr=Tok,+AK,+United+States&amp;hl=en&amp;geocode=FVHIpAMd0-ZG9yk5dRoPA0S2VjFPoZHJ7bRUHw%3BFdtwxgMdrDZ69ynBOwHudXNKUTHo1Et_eTMDIg&amp;mra=ls&amp;sll=49.891235,-97.15369&amp;sspn=21.334973,56.513672&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;ll=62.285811,-144.915161&amp;spn=0.894154,2.334595&amp;z=8" style="color:#0000FF;text-align:left">View Larger Map</a></small>

Valdez is the most beautiful town we have seen in Alaska.  The new town is completely surrounded by white capped mountains. Everywhere you look there are mountains. Breathtaking.  Peter & I debated the idea of climbing one near the hotel. I told him to get the camera & I will wave to him from the summit.  Not!
 In 1967 they moved the town to its present location because there was an earthquake at the site of the original town. Huh!

The next morning while taking a picture of an awesome totem pole, I notice that Peter's rear tire needs air.  Not a great start to the day. Luckily it happened before we left town. At the service station we suds down the tire but can't find the leak.  When we put 80 psi in the tire we discover that one of the old plugs is leaking. Peter replaces it with on of my mushroom head plugs.  It appears to be working so we hope for the best and head on our way to take a picture of the end of the Trans Alaska Pipeline.


Where is that leak?

Oil tank farm & ship



On the way out of town we stop to see the Valdez glacier & a couple of waterfalls we missed on the way into town.
Valdez Glacier

Horsetail Falls

Bridal Falls

Wednesday, 6 July 2011

Day 30:Palmer to Glenallen to Valdez AK: Hwys 1 & 4, 400kms

Map link:
<iframe width="425" height="350" frameborder="0" scrolling="no" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" src="http://maps.google.ca/maps?f=d&amp;source=s_d&amp;saddr=Palmer,+AK,+United+States&amp;daddr=Valdez,+AK,+United+States&amp;hl=en&amp;geocode=FervqwMdNrgc9ykLK5Pr5B3JVjFQ3Y3ne6gmvg%3BFVHIpAMd0-ZG9yk5dRoPA0S2VjFPoZHJ7bRUHw&amp;mra=ls&amp;sll=60.657032,-150.100708&amp;sspn=1.012164,3.532104&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;ll=61.58372,-147.116895&amp;spn=1.05162,4.01155&amp;output=embed"></iframe><br /><small><a href="http://maps.google.ca/maps?f=d&amp;source=embed&amp;saddr=Palmer,+AK,+United+States&amp;daddr=Valdez,+AK,+United+States&amp;hl=en&amp;geocode=FervqwMdNrgc9ykLK5Pr5B3JVjFQ3Y3ne6gmvg%3BFVHIpAMd0-ZG9yk5dRoPA0S2VjFPoZHJ7bRUHw&amp;mra=ls&amp;sll=60.657032,-150.100708&amp;sspn=1.012164,3.532104&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;ll=61.58372,-147.116895&amp;spn=1.05162,4.01155" style="color:#0000FF;text-align:left">View Larger Map</a></small>

Palmer is just north of Anchorage Alaska.  We are headed to the most southerly part of Alaska & the other end of the pipeline, Valdez.

The highway from Palmer to Glenallen was unbelievably good.  It is probably the best road I have ever ridden. It climbs through the mountains, twisting & turning upward. On your right is a large wide river like the Yukon River.  Behind it were more snow capped mountains.  The pavement was excellent.  Peter & I had a lot of fun initially.  As we climbed, looking over the edge of the roadway was scary, but you had to look, because it was so beautiful.  You had this internal fight going on; I want to look because it is so beautiful, but I can't look because the fall is so scary.  Your mind is in constant turmoil.  Yes I can; no I can't; but l have to look, I can't help it. Eventually, the weather solved the problem.  It started getting colder the farther up we went.  When we reached the summit we stopped at a small cafe to put on more clothes & to have a coffee to warm up.  We didn't really drink a lot of the coffee.  We just held it in our hands to get warm.

When we left the cafe we passed what looked like a glacier.  I wasn't sure until I saw a sign that said something like Glacier View School. Huh!  Then the road suddenly changed into a 4 lane super highway for no reason at all.  It was kind of weird.  We had the road all to ourselves all the way to Glenallen where we had lunch.

On the way to Valdez we saw a couple of interesting waterfalls, but we were too cold to photograph them.  Don't worry we stopped on the way back so the pictures will be in tomorrow's episode.

Day 29: Soldotna to Seward to Palmer AK; Hwy 1 , 500kms

Map link:

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Seward is another cruise ship port in southern Alaska.  Passing through Seward we followed the slippery road to Miner's Landing to have lunch on the beach.  The weather was identical to yesterday, so we take the opportunity to warm ourselves at a campfire on the beach.  Peter had made sandwiches with our left over chicken.  Man they tasted  good.





We stopped at Exit Glacier to take some photos.

Day 28:Girdwood to Anchor Point AK: Hwy 1, 500 kms

Map link to paste in browser:
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Today our goal is to go the most Westerly point of Alaska that is accessible by road. Then onto Homer a cruise ship port.  Homer is a touristy town with a long slip covered in tourist attractions. It reminded me of Bangor Maine. We had a healthy lunch for a change; smoked salmon salad.  Man, it was good.  Imagine a Greek salad with smoked salmon.  Mmmm.
Peter looking for Russia


The catch of the day (me)


Leaving Homer the weather is overcast with rain off & on.  The temperature is still in the teens.  On our way out of town a Bald Eagle passed overhead.  It was huge, like 747 taking off.  We had seen its nest earlier.  I'm sure I could have sat inside it (except for the young eagles.)

We head back up the peninsula & stop @ Soldotna for the night.  It has been exactly 4 weeks & 13K kms since we started our trip.

Monday, 4 July 2011

Day 27: Denali Park to Girdwood; Hwy 1, 500kms

We were lucky we went to the Park yesterday. Today was overcast with showers off & on until Anchorage. Then it cleared up, so we decided to continue on to a small ski resort town, Girdwood.  The road followed the Cook's Inlet with mountains on the opposite side.  Absolutely stunning,  but there wasn't anywhere you could stop to take a picture and weekend traffic was too heavy to even consider stopping.

Captain Cook had sailed up this inlet thinking it was the way to the North West passage.  When he discovered his error he had to turn around & headed back out.  The place where he turned around was called...Turn Around Again.  Huh!

We stopped at the info centre to check on accommodates.  The lady was quite helpful and called a B&B for us. The house was a nice change from the usual motels.  We both felt more at home. There was a living room, kitchen, bedroom, laundry facilities and 1 a half bathrooms. A very comfortable place.

The town reminded me of Stowe Vermont.  All the beautiful outdoorsy types were there. Yuppie heaven. 

Peter & I walked to this highly recommended really nice restaurant.  Reviewing the menu we decided to treat ourselves to a really good steak dinner with a bottle of red wine.  The wine lead to a lot of car talk & reminiscing.   As we enjoyed supper, I commented that there was a good chance that the other people in the room were going to get some sugar tonight.  While Peter agreed, he emphatically stated that wasn't going to happen at this table.  I said, "You got that right!"   I slept well.

Saturday, 2 July 2011

Day 26 June 26th: Fairbanks to Denali Park; Hwy 3, 200 kms


We packed up by 9 AM & arrived at Denali National Park around noon, just in time to book an 8 hour tour leaving at 1 o' clock.  The weather looked really promising to see all of Mt. McKinley.  Did you know that Mt. McKinley is the highest mountain in North America? Only 20% of the people that visit the park ever see the peak because the mountain has its own weather system. Huh!  It looked like we might be in luck.


Peter likes to challenge his fear of heights; my fear of falling kept me from the edge

On the way to the park we crossed this bridge & had to stop to take some pictures.

After purchasing lunch & supper we boarded the bus to head out on the 120 mile round trip!  (8 hours; 120 miles, not the pace that we are used to doing) On the way up we saw a caribou, wolf, a mother grizzly bear & her two cubs.  The bears were blonde coloured!  Well, more like a sand colour really, but I couldn't get over it.  Apparently, grizzly bears come in black, brown, red & blonde.  Great, just how the heck are you supposed to recognize one?  I guess when they start to chase you it doesn't really matter what colour they are.

On the way back we saw a moose, another blonde mother grizzly bear & her cub, a family of Dall Sheep, a porcupine, two snowshoe rabbits, umpteen Arctic ground squirrels & some sort of varmet.

Peter & I took turns sleeping on bus.  We couldn't get excited about one caribou after seeing herds of them.
Denali Park 












Mt McKinley was just stunning.  Absolutely unbelievable. Now I can understand why mountain climbers are intoxicated by mountains.  Wow, definitely worth the 8 hour bus ride.